Amouage Bracken Woman EDP 100ml

The green floral excursion at the start of Bracken marks something of a new departure for Amouage, despite the existence of Myths Woman. Whereas the latter had the trudge of a goth weighed down with trinkets, Bracken opens with the vitality of a skipping spring lamb.
The evocation of a clearing of bracken/fern is juxtaposed with the cut stems and mixed florals of a good florist’s shop – this is green done in a manner that is both energetic and fresh and yet with a sheen of refinement. There is an intensely sweet but well-contained note in the mix resembling rose geranium – it intrigues among the greens and offers instant contrast like a daub of postbox red in a Hodgkin painting.
The evolution is quite dramatic but happens in stages as Bracken Woman goes from vivid verdancy to a much creamier, more abstract composition. It is now soufflé-light, with aquatic elements, powdery ‘wood’ aromachemicals, maybe a touch of lily of the valley entering into the mix. I found it a pleasure to wear from start to finish, though the vibrancy of the first few hours was what really caught my attention. It’s possible that once I have worn it a bit more, the soft focus of the latter stages will grow in my affections.